Visiting Mostar in Bosnia & Herzegovina.
My first time in Mostar was only on a day trip… But what a pleasant surprise…
My favourite city in Europe, without a doubt!
If you are visiting Mostar soon, then you are in for an amazing experience!
I have written this blog to showcase the charming town in Bosnia & Herzegovina, as it is one of the Balkan’s hidden gems.
The town’s famous Stari Most has a turbulent history and charming aesthetics in equal measure.
And the old bazaar, traditional restaurants, and fascinating blend of architectural styles also add to the endearing vibe in Mostar.
So is Mostar worth visiting? Absolutely!
Let me show you why, starting with the history and culture of the town.
The Stari Most is the highlight of the charming town.
Disclosure: I sometimes use affiliate marketing. This will not cost you anything, but helps with my travel costs. I only recommend companies I use myself.
Why visit Mostar?
There are so many beautiful spots in the Balkans, so what makes Mostar so special?
Mostar is a city that effortlessly combines history, culture, and natural beauty.
The locals, who have endured tough times in recent decades, are now working hard to build a bright and welcoming future for the city.
This resilience is reflected in the town’s atmosphere, where its unique charm meets modern influences, to create some surreal vibes.
Especially in and around the iconic Stari Most, which is the centrepiece of Mostar.
Beyond its famous landmarks, Mostar’s unique blend of Ottoman, Austro-Hungarian, and modern influences makes it a living tapestry of history and culture.
What is Mostar famous for?
Mostar is famous for its stunning architecture, diverse culture, and rich history. Here is a deeper dive into what makes Mostar a must visit destination.
The Stari Most glows up the night sky.
Learn about Mostar’s turbulent history.
Despite being a small city, Mostar was a pivotal location in the Bosnian war in the early 1990’s.
Mostar's geography made it vital for controlling movement and resources in the region, therefore, it was targeted for military control by the various factions involved in the conflict; Bosniaks (Bosnian Muslims), Croats, and Serbs.
Prior to the conflict, the city had been connected through its iconic Stari Most for centuries, dating back to the Ottoman Empire in the 16th century.
Mostar’s name is derived from the "mostari," or ‘bridge keepers’, who protected the Old Bridge, but despite its importance to the local communties the Stari Most was destroyed in 1993 by shelling.
The famous Stari Most was restored to its former glory back in 2005, and was also awarded UNESCO World Heritage status under the official title of ‘Old Bridge Area of the Old City of Mostar’.
Although the iconic landmark is longer showing obvious reminders of its history, along with the centre of the city having an endearing charm to it, you don’t need to venture far off the beaten track to find war remnants.
Mostar sniper tower.
During the war in Bosnia, the famous Mostar sniper tower was a strategic vantage point, where opposing forces, and civilians were targeted.
As of today, the abandoned building stands as a poignant reminder of the conflict, although it is now covered in colourful graffiti and urban art, reflecting resilience and hope for the future.
The site is not officially open for tourism, but many travellers still explore it, as they want to try and piece together the tragic history of Mostar.
Bullet holes are still present in some buildings in the town.
Buildings with bullet holes.
Another stark reminder of the Bosnian war are the bullet holes which have covered some of the historic buildings.
As I wandered off the beaten track on my solo trip to Mostar, I noticed many buildings which are still showing signs of the intense shelling and gunfire in the area over three decades ago.
Some are residential buildings which still house local Bosnian people!
An infamous landmark in the city is the Neretva Hotel, which was destroyed during the war, and has stood as a shell for over three decades. It was an eye-opener as to the devastation the city endured.
Despite these remnants not being formal tourist attractions, they evoke reflection on the war's impact, therefore, a must visit for important insights into the region.
A local hero.
Immerse in the culture of the town.
From a cultural standpoint, Mostar has a rich blend of Islamic and Christian traditions, with a mixture of mosques and churches.
It reminded me of Tirana in Albania, which is very similar in this aspect.
In Mostar it is evenly split between Muslims and Christians, and the vibe of the city reflects this, with very welcoming locals.
I found the city’s cultural blend to be beautifully present in its architecture, cuisine, and daily life.
I found it strange to hear the call for prayer and church bells ringing as I explored!
Once you arrive at the markets, you will see just how diverse the city’s influence is.
Traditional Bosnian Coffee.
A day in Mostar should always start with a traditional Bosnian coffee!
There is a bit of an Eastern influence in this area, with Bosnian coffee being deeply intertwined with the region's hospitality and social customs.
It’s an important aspect of welcoming guests, which I experienced in my Jordan, Egypt, and Istanbul trips.
All of my coffees in Bosnia were served with a glass of water and a sugar cube, usually on small traditionally designed plates.
Caffe Lasta is my recommendation as the owner is really kind and polite, and the coffee was delightful!
A traditional restaurant.
Some traditional decor.
Mostar nightlife.
Some fun things to do around Mostar include sampling the local bars, which in the popular riverside spots, offer incredible views of the glowing bridge.
It is definitely more of a restaurant style, chilled vibe, as the city isn’t very big on the clubbing scene, unlike some other major Balkan cities.
If you want to add some culture to your evening, then when I visited in June, there were certain venues which were advertising live traditional performances of sevdalinka (soulful Bosnian music).
You will see the signs outside of the bars offering these unique performances, especially in summer months.
In both Croatia and Bosnia I sampled the local rakija, which is a fruit brandy, and it is very strong!
You will see that it is available in all of the bars in the Old Town area!
A local artist on the streets.
Where is Mostar located?
Mostar is a history rich city located in southern Bosnia and Herzegovina, in the region of Herzegovina, which is part of the country’s larger Bosnia and Herzegovina federation.
Mostar is within a few hours of popular spots in the Balkans, and these are the nearby cities which most visitors travel from:
Sarajevo - 81 miles to the north.
Dubrovnik, Croatia - 87 miles to the south.
Split, Croatia - 106 miles to the west.
Due to its unique location between the East and West, the Bosnian city has a blend of Ottoman and European influences, which shows in the architecture, culture, and vibe of Mostar.
Mostar is located in a valley surrounded by the Dinaric Alps, which contributes towards the postcard-worthy setting of the city.
Through being located within close proximity of some major regional hubs, along with some fascinating history, and stunning natural scenery, it is no surprise that international visitors are attracted to Mostar!
How to get to Mostar.
Here are the most popular ways of visiting Mostar:
Mostar Sarajevo train.
Sarajevo is the starting point for many international tourists heading to Mostar, so they are presented with the opportunity to enjoy one of the most stunning train journeys in Europe.
The scenic train ride from Sarajevo takes around 2.5 hours, and passes breathtaking mountain landscapes and tunnels, as the line follows the turquoise Neretva River south down to Mostar.
My advice is to book tickets in advance during summer months and sit on the left side of the train for the best views.
Regional or international bus.
Mostar is well connected by bus to major cities in Bosnia and Herzegovina, along with its neighbouring countries.
The most frequently used Popular routes are:
Sarajevo to Mostar (2.5 hours)
Dubrovnik to Mostar (3 hours, including a border crossing)
Split to Mostar (4 hours)
Mostar from Montenegro is a little further out, with bus journeys taking around 5-6 hours.
I have travelled the Balkans extensively by Bus, and in Bosnia they are modern, affordable, and reliable, and you can purchase tickets in advance.
One of the town’s beautiful churches.
Organised day tours.
Although this way won’t give you as long in Mostar as what many visitors would like, it is a stress free way of visiting the Bosnian city from some other popular summer destinations.
Of course, you will see much more of the city if you spend more than 24 hours in Mostar, however, certain tours offer up to 6 hours free time exploring, along with return transportation.
This is enough time to enjoy the Stari Most, try some traditional Bosnian cuisine, and to chill with drinks by the Neretva River.
Many tour operators offer guided packages as a day trip from Sarajevo, Dubrovnik, and Split.
These can be long days as there will be several hours each way to arrive in Mostar, however, there is usually a stop at Blagaj Tekija or the Kravica Waterfalls to break the day up nicely!
You won’t enjoy the full experience, but you will feel the essence of Mostar, and it is a great way of visiting multiple Balkans destinations on one trip.
An iconic shot from the Stari Most.
Best time to visit Mostar?
Whichever time of the year you visit Mostar, you are in for an interesting visit.
It can get very crowded in peak visiting times though, and you wouldn’t want to take a dip in the Neretva River in winter time, so it all depends on your travel preferences.
Here is a brief summary of the different seasons in the Bosnian city:
Spring & Autumn.
Temperatures range from 15–25°C which makes the city exploration much more comfortable for international tourists who aren’t used to the baking summer conditions.
Wandering the centre of town is a more relaxed experience, and you will grab a bargain in a hotel right near the Stari Most.
The surrounding landscapes can be more picturesque in these seasons with greenery and flowers blooming in the spring, and a nice foliage as the autumn comes around.
Summer - (June to August).
The atmosphere in Mostar in the summer months is awesome!
High energy, smiling faces, and dining outside in beautiful settings during the warm evenings.
However, it does come at a cost, as temperatures can reach over 40°C, which is exemplified by the geographical layout of Mostar. It is located in a valley, where the sun’s heat gets trapped and creates a baking hot blanket over Mostar.
I personally loved a June visit to the city though, as I just took it slowly and stopped for plenty of refreshments, in the form of ice coffees, ice creams, and of course, cold beers.
These months are also perfect weather for exploring Kravica Waterfalls, or rafting on the Neretva River, which are both fun activities.
Sunset time in Mostar.
Mostar in the winter.
Although Mostar very rarely enjoys a winter blanket, it does have a unique vibe at this time of year.
The lack of tourists, and closed attractions offers visitors more of an authentic experience with the locals, and the Stari Most area is like a ghost town.
The affordable accommodation and dining options are even cheaper than usual, however, there may be reduced services to reach Mostar from destinations a little further away.
From my personal experience, the sunshine, blue skies, and smiling visitors are the biggest draws to the city, so I would visit between the months of June - August again If I returned.
A colourful town.
Is Bosnia safe?
Bosnia and Herzegovina is generally a safe destination for travellers, which is the feeling I got throughout my time in the beautiful country.
Popular destinations like Sarajevo, Mostar, and Blagaj are considered very safe.
Tourists are warmly welcomed, and the local people are known for their hospitality, which I can also testify to!
One of the main worries in Bosnia are pickpockets in busy areas such as the centre of Mostar, therefore, you should stay vigilant. It reminded me of Rome, Paris, Barcelona etc in the area near the Stari Most.
If you head to more rural areas, you should stick to marked trails and avoid venturing off-road, as many cities have been rebuilt following the war, therefore, some landmines have been known to be present.
Quiet and safe streets.
Is Mostar cheap?
I found Mostar to be much cheaper than most Western countries, and its neighbouring country, Croatia.
Accommodation: Average hotel prices can range from £15 to £50 per night, per person.
Dining out: If you dine at local establishments, you can enjoy a large filling meal for less than £5 in most places. Local coffee and beer is also cheaper than many European destinations, coming in at less than £2-£3. Western food in mid-rage restaurants can be closer to European prices, however, local options are abundant.
Attractions: The Stari Most is the main attraction, and free, with many of the other top highlights within Mostar being under £20. Full day tours of the Herzegovina region, including multiple stops can range between £30-£70, offering incredible value.
Travel around the city: Much of the city is walkable, although in baking summer months, transport may be a necessity. Buses are as cheap as £1 for shorter distances, and taxis are also considerably cheaper than other destinations.
A day in Mostar can be comfortably enjoyed for less than £50 per person, including all of the above expenses.
A beautiful setting.
Some charming things to do in Mostar.
Here are some awesome options that I personally experienced to add to your Mostar itinerary:
Enjoy dinner by the Stari Most.
The Stari Most area of Mostar is abundant with places to eat.
The setting exudes history and romance, with a beautiful turquoise river, mixed architecture, street performers, and happy souls.
I never got tired of admiring the views of the Old Bridge!
Despite the high end ambiance in the restaurants, the traditional Bosnian dishes such as ćevapi, burek, and pita are budget friendly, and come in very large portion sizes, usually served alongside regional wines.
If you are on a shorter Mostar itinerary then make an evening meal in this area your priority!
Scenic restaurants with views of Stari Most.
Local Bosnian cuisine.
Do you dare complete the Mostar bridge jump?
The famous Mostar jump has been a feature of the Stari Most for centuries!
It is a tradition for locals and international visitors to jump from the 22 metre high bridge into the Neretva River.
It ain’t as simple as just jumping from the bridge though.
There is a fee of around €50, which is payable to the local diving club, for a morning’s worth of training at various heights, to ensure potential jumpers are ready.
Although plenty of visitors have completed the jump over the years, it is more likely that you will witness a local jump.
The local youngsters often build a crowd and atmosphere ready to jump, before walking around to collect donations. Once they have rounded up enough cash, they will jump, and entertain visitors.
I witnessed two locals jumping, and both escaped unscathed through the risky activity!
Locals jumping from Stari Most.
Shop in the Old Bazaar (Kujundžiluk).
East of the Stari Most, right in the centre of Mostar lies ‘Bazar Kujundžiluk’, also known as the Old Bazaar.
The Ottoman-era market spreads across both sides of the bridge, and is jam packed with market stalls, coffee shops, and tourist spots.
As I was browsing the stalls, I found the locals to be very polite, friendly, and fun, despite a slight language barrier.
There is definitely a distinct eastern feel to the market.
As you would expect from a tourist bazaar, you can find everything from fake trainers and perfume, to handcrafted local items, and war memorial items
In terms of prices, even though the locals may charge you extra as a ‘tourist price’, Bosnia is a very cheap country, so you are guaranteed a bargain!
As I wandered round the cobblestone streets, it felt very similar to Istanbul in Turkey.
You will also undoubtedly find the best coffee in Mostar in this area also, as the pedestrianised area is filled with plenty of restaurants and cafes, all offering a chilled vibe and famous Bosnia style coffee.
The bazaar is more atmospheric early in the morning before the shops open, as the crowds can be very heavy in peak summer months.
An early morning visit will also allow you to capture some beautiful photos of the iconic bridge, as the bazaar is one of the most picturesque spots for capturing the essence of Old Bridge.
Anyone visiting Mostar must take a stroll through this street, as it feels like stepping into the past!
A stall in the famous bazaar.
The cobblestone paths are long and windy.
Take a city tour to learn some interesting history.
If you want to learn about Mostar from a local who has lived through the tough times in the city, then this tour is ideal:
Private Walking Tour of Mostar.
Walking central Mostar with a local is a great introduction into the city.
The sheer devastation of the city comes to life when you hear the guides explain what they experienced first hand in the very spots where you stand.
Although this tour is only just over an hour, it is an intense hour, and you will visit 4 important landmarks:
Crooked Bridge (Kriva Cuprija).
Mostar Old Bridge.
Hadzi-Kurt Mosque (Tabacica).
Koski-Mehmed Pasha Mosque.
We would never have found the secret viewpoints that Marco showed us!
Its perfect 5/5 star reviews from nearly 100 travellers confirms that it is an awesome hour spent!
The Mostar Monastery and Mostar Genocide Museum are two other important landmarks that you should consider adding to your itinerary, if you have time.
Enjoy the town’s beautiful street art.
As Mostar focuses on a vision of a bright and colourful future, this manifests through street art murals.
With over 100 recognised graffiti murals now located in the city, it is fair to say that the local communities share the ideas of a colourful future.
Alekse Šantića Street is the main spot to visit for street art, as it is close to where the front line was during he Bosnian war.
It is less than one mile from the Stari Most, and it took me around 15 minutes to head over there.
A colourful area of the town.
Historically there has been a Street Arts Festival held annually in the Bosnian city.
This artistic movement has been held in order to connect creatives from around the world, allowing them to work together, to turn the visions of the locals into reality.
You can keep an eye out for festival updates on the official SAFMO site.
Visit the Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque.
Another activity which is really cheap is visiting the Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque.
The historic building has been an important landmark in Mostar for over 400 years, dating back to the Ottoman empire, which is reflected in the structure’s architecture.
Even though the mosque is very small inside, it still displays interesting decor.
My highlight of the mosque was climbing the minaret to enjoy spectacular views from the high platform.
I found the different perspective of the Stari Most to be fascinating, and the panoramic views of the city were awesome, especially with the picturesque mountainous backdrop.
It is less than 5 minutes to walk from the Old Bridge to the mosque, and it only costs a couple of euros to enter, making it a must visit place!
The beautiful mosque in a picture perfect setting.
Awesome views after climbing the mosque’s minaret.
Some natural beauty is just a short drive away.
Mostar is worth visiting as a stand alone destination, however, there is so much Bosnian beauty within a short drive of the city.
One of the best day trips from Mostar are Kravice Waterfalls, which are under a one hour drive away.
I visited Kravice on a morning in June, and it was around 35°C, so it was a very welcoming site when I witnessed guests swimming.
Unlike the beautiful Krka Waterfalls in Croatia, visitors are allowed to swim around the falls in this Bosnian nature spot.
The water was so fresh that it took my breath away as soon as I jumped in!
Some beautiful Bosnian waterfalls.
If you prefer to just sunbathe with an incredible setting, and abundance of nature then there are plenty of deck chairs, and spots to lay a towel.
I warn you though, in summer months, you won’t be able to withstand the heat for too long, without a dip, or refreshing drink.
There are restaurants, cafes, and toilets on site, so you can also have your lunch here!
Most Bosnian tours from Croatia will include Kravice and Mostar.
My first glimpse of Kravice Waterfalls.
How to travel around Mostar.
Mostar is only a small city, and due to its geographical location, most visitors stay close to the Stari Most, as that is where the locals cater for tourists.
Walking.
I found walking is the best way to explore Mostar’s Old Town and nearby landmarks.
All of the main historic attractions are located in close proximity to the centre, with many popular Mostar accommodation options also being in the vicinity.
With day tours also dropping visitors near the Stari Most, you will find it difficult to hit a high steps count in the city, unless you head beyond the Old Town area.
Bikes and Scooter hire.
Bikes and scooters can be rented in Mostar if you are planning on heading a bit further out in the boiling summer months.
The terrain is relatively flat in the central areas, making cycling a pleasant and eco-friendly option.
You can rent either option here.
Taxis.
I only used one taxi in Mostar, and it was extremely affordable compared to other European destinations.
It was also very easy to find, and the metre method seemed genuine.
If you are heading away from the city, you can negotiate a good deal with the local drivers.
The beautiful Neretva river in Mostar.
My travel tips for Mostar.
Here are some travel tips based on my personal experience of visiting Mostar in the month of June.
Be prepared for very hot conditions in summer months.
I will never forget the heat of Mostar, it soared above 40°C!
Walking long distances was difficult due to the sweltering heat, therefore, you should carry water, and plan to stop for a drinks break every half an hour or so!
In and around the tourist centre, there are restaurants and coffee shops everywhere, so it won’t be an issue to find somewhere comfortable with air conditioning.
Bring some swimwear.
The Neretva River is so fresh and picturesque, so it makes a great activity to take a dip and cool down.
There are spots near the Stari Most where tourists can take a swim.
If you are on a day trip, Kravice Waterfalls will also likely be on your itinerary , and that is another refreshing spot.
Swimming under the waterfalls is awesome!
Wear appropriate footwear.
I found the cobblestone streets and the surface of the Stari Most to be slippery, and witnessed a tourist slip and hurt herself.
I recommend choosing non-slip or comfortable walking shoes for your time in Mostar.
Head away from the Old Town for a more authentic experience.
There is no doubt that you will be spending a lot of time in the Old Town area, however, I recommend taking a walk outside of the tourist spots.
When I headed to Alekse Šantića Street to see the graffiti murals, I saw authentic Bosnia, and had awesome interactions with some locals.
The iconic Stari Most.
Short on time? This day trip from Dubrovnik is very popular!
Popular day tours are the method that many international guests use to visit Mostar, with Dubrovnik being a very common starting point.
The Southern Croatian city is located just under 3 hours away from Mostar.
This tour leaves early in the morning, to ensure that a full day can be enjoyed, and it allows for a smooth transition through the border.
Your guide will handle the border, driving, and will even give you some information about the history of the region while driving.
This is a great option if you are on a solo trip to the Balkans, as it is easy to meet fellow travellers on the tour.
✔ Transportation with air-conditioned vehicles.
✔ Hotel pick up and drop-off.
✔ English speaking driver/guide.
✔ Tour escort.
✔ Includes Kravice falls.
The tour has been established with a high rating from over 700 people so far.
You can imagine how quickly the luxurious mini buses fill up in the high tourist season.
Crossing the border.
Love the Balkans? Dubrovnik is also fun.
So as you have just read, many visitors head to Mostar from Dubrovnik, however, if you are considering heading the other way, then it is a resounding yes from me!
As one of the most popular spots in Croatia, Dubrovnik attracts millions of annual tourists each year, due to its mixture of modern highlights, and medieval Old Town.
The ‘Pearl of the Adriatic’ is a prominent stop on many Mediterranean cruise itineraries, therefore, exploring Dubrovnik with the crowds can put international visitors off, however, the city is a key destination due to its stunning UNESCO-listed Old Town, historic architecture, and spectacular coastal scenery.
Who wants to miss that?
Sunny days, hot daily temperatures, and beautiful beaches are a big draw to Croatia, and Dubrovnik is abundant with all of them, especially in peak summer months!
My two favourite things in Dubrovnik were riding up Mount SRD on the Cable car at sunset, and finding the Secret cliff bar on the edge of the Old Town, both of which offered unique aesthetics of the city.
Make sure Dubrovnik and Mostar are on your Balkans trip!
Disclosure: I sometimes use affiliate marketing. This will not cost you anything, but helps with my travel costs. I only recommend companies I use myself.