Inside Varosha in Famagusta. An abandoned Ghost City!
An abandoned smokehouse restaurant, old Toyota Garage, and of course… the famous beach…
It is hard to believe this city was thriving only half a century ago.
Welcome inside Varosha in Famagusta!
When I booked my flight to Cyprus, I was planning my trip, when my interest was piqued by a ghost city in North Cyprus.
I had to go and visit, and more importantly, learn about its history.
This blog details the practicalities of visiting Varosha, including how you can visit from Paphos, which is quite a journey, including crossing into North Cyprus at the famous Ledra Street border crossing.
However, I found the journey to be rewarding when I was inside Varosha, the deserted holiday resort!
One of the famous spots in Varosha.
Why is Varosha a ghost town?
Varosha was abandoned in 1974 due to conflict between Turkey and Cyprus.
This blog is about the practical information of visiting, where you can learn more detailed history from knowledgeable people.
It is a story that you should learn though, as some of the facts are historically important.
Whilst Varosha is open to the public, getting there is not easy, so this blog will help you.
An old Philips store.
How can you visit Varosha?
Since 2020, the abandoned city of Varosha (Maraş) has been opened for the public to explore, as long as the rules are followed, and respect is shown.
When I was researching entering Varosha, I could not find much clear information, but I headed to North Cyprus to figure it out.
It is free to enter inside the Ghost city, so your only costs will be transport to Varosha, and your transport inside the city, if you don’t want to explore by walking.
Varosha opening times: 8am to 5pm (as of 2024).
Explore Varosha Independently.
If you decide to visit on your own, as I did, then you will have to cross the border into the TRNC independently and head to Famagusta.
From there, you can take a taxi or hire a golf buggy to the entrance of Varosha.
It is also walkable, and is 4 km from the centre of Famagusta.
If you a have a longer time window available, this is an option.
You will need to bring your passport with you, and maybe change some currency to Turkish Lira, as I found some places in North Cyprus don’t accept cards.
Although I did learn about the history of Varosha, through talking to locals, researching online, and reading information boards, it would have been a more thorough history lesson on a private walking tour.
A knowledgeable local will discuss the mystery and strange occurrences of the different areas of the ghost city, in real time as you observe them.
I did consider this option but I was short on time as I visited from Paphos on a shorter trip.
Booking this tour will make for an authentic travel experience.
A warning sticker in Turkish.
Some official visitor rules.
Here are some of the rules which are displayed throughout Varosha:
If using a bicycle, please do not leave the cycle lanes and block pedestrian access.
Do not enter non-permitted zones to take photos.
Do not approach any buildings, as fallen parts can cause serious harm.
Do not chuck any cigarettes on the floor unless they are fully extinguished.
Do not enter buildings, or walk around grassy areas or bushes in the gardens.
No drones allowed in the city.
The entry point into Varosha.
What can you do in Varosha?
Explore and imagine in two words!
Once you are inside Varosha, you will see designated walkways, and you will continue to see these lined alongside the roads throughout the city.
These are the sections you are allowed to walk/scooter/cycle along, furthermore, you can walk up to the barriers in front of the derelict buildings.
You are free to explore everywhere of note, as I can’t remember any areas where I wanted to visit, that I couldn’t.
This includes the famous beach, which is now open for people to use again.
There have been stories of tourists pushing their luck in the past, and entering inside buildings etc, however, you will get in serious trouble, as there are police officers patrolling, and CCTV in most areas.
These buildings have been left for fifty years, so the risk involved in getting too close is dangerously high.
Just entered.
How long is needed to fully explore Varosha?
I spent 90 minutes exploring Varosha by scooter, and feel like I didn’t get to see all of it.
I think, to enjoy the full experience, it will take you 2-3 hours, especially if you are exploring by foot.
This will give you time to grab some shots for Instagram, learn about some of the history of Varosha, enjoy some refreshments on site, and get some exercise in the Cyprus sunshine.
Signpost in Varosha in Famagusta.
The iconic Maraş Plajı Beach.
Maraş Plajı was a thriving holiday resort half a century ago, before it was left abandoned, alongside the holiday resorts.
It has now partially reopened for tourists to enjoy again.
You will find many visitors head to the beach first, as it is the most recognisable part of the city. I found several walking tours to be in the vicinity of the beach area.
Can you swim at Maraş Plajı beach?
Yes, you can swim at Maraş beach.
In the summer, there are sun loungers available to rent.
When I visited in January, it wasn’t swimming weather, so tourists were only walking along the famous spot.
The iconic Famagusta beach.
How to get around Varosha.
There are multiple ways to explore Varosha, with the best option depending on your health, fitness levels, available time, and simply whether you enjoy exercise or not!
To rent any of the transport options you have to be over 18 years old, and if you choose a buggy, it will be driven by a member of the staff on site.
Walk by yourself, or on a walking tour.
Walking is a popular choice for many tourists, and it has its benefits.
It is easier to stop and observe the different buildings without having to put your scooter/bike down each time.
It also allows you to slow down and notice every part of the city, whereas cycling past certain parts is easily done.
This also allows you to appreciate that families lived and worked in the buildings.
It is a free activity for the walkers also!
Bicycle rental.
Exploring Varosha on a bicycle is a popular option, and they can be rented at the entrance for 150 TL (£3.50) for 2 hours.
You must stay within the cycle lanes at all times.
Scooter rental.
My choice of transport was an e-scooter, as I was short of time, so wanted to explore at a faster speed.
It turned out that the scooter I chose was probably the slowest scooter I have ever rode.
I think I picked one short on the battery, as it was temperamental.
At times, people were walking faster than my scooter!
It was 300 TL (£7.50) for two hours, and as you can see in the photos, there is an abundance of availability, just make sure you don’t pick the one I chose!!
Ticket office in Varosha.
Scooters to rent.
Buggy Hire.
Getting chauffeured about a ghost city is a one of a kind experience for sure!
If this interests you, then you are looking at paying 100TL (£2.50) per person, but I think the minimum people is 3 for the staff member to be used.
I noticed all the buggies had large groups riding them.
This is the best option for older travellers, or less active tourists, as the city does take some trekking around to appreciate it fully.
You can travel around the city with a guide on the buggies.
When is the best time to visit Varosha?
Cyprus has warm weather all year round, so Varosha can be explored anytime of the year.
I visited in January and wore shorts and a hoodie comfortably.
There were still many tourists in the ghost city in January.
The heat of summertime will make it more difficult to walk around Varosha, but the bikes and scooters are still viable options in that case.
Whichever time of the day you come, there will be some crowds, however, Varosha is big enough to avoid large congregating crowds, it is a city after all!
That being said, the famous beach, and Toyota Garage are popular spots, so if you want these spots to yourself, to enjoy the full eerie experience, then head to Varosha first thing in the morning.
There is something creepy about walking around a Ghost city on your own!
An old postbox.
The famous Toyota garage.
When I visited the deserted Toyota garage, it sent my imagination running.
The logistics of the locals leaving the car garage all of a sudden, full of new cars is a situation which reaffirms how abrupt the situation must have been.
Seeing what would have been the livelihoods of a whole community, deserted and left to rot is like stepping into a haunting time capsule.
If you want to visit the famous Toyota Garage, it is located around 15 minutes on a scooter from the main entrance.
I did have to ask a local security guard for directions to find it.
The Toyota Garage.
Information board displayed in Turkish.
Some derelict banks.
One of the most interesting aspects of the city were the derelict banks which still display the original logos, although badly damaged!
I did wonder what happened to all the money and prized possessions as I observed Barclays and the Bank of Cyprus.
From what I read when I returned home, the banks would have been subject to looting, along with the deterioration of the buildings.
The fate of the money will remain a mystery forever I guess!
An old Barclays Bank.
Are you officially allowed to take photos inside Varosha?
Yes, is the short answer.
However, you can only take photographs from the designated walkways, and there are security guards monitoring this.
A once thriving restaurant.
Is Varosha safe to visit?
Whether Varosha is safe to visit depends on your definition of "safe" and your risk tolerance.
I didn’t feel unsafe at any point during my time in North Cyprus.
Things that I considered before heading to Varosha:
Political situation.
I checked out the political situation as the city is located in a politically complex area. The Republic of Cyprus claims the entire island, while the TRNC controls the northern part. Entering the TRNC may have implications depending on your home country.
Travel Restrictions.
I checked that I was allowed to enter North Cyprus as a British passport holder.
Some countries might have restrictions on travel to the TRNC.
Check with your embassy or consulate for the latest information.
Warning sign inside Varosha.
Military Presence.
I heard that there was a strong military presence and some restricted zones. I did some prior research and decided to keep my distance from these areas.
You should avoid taking photos of military personnel.
Dangerous buildings inside the city.
I knew there were dangers of damaged buildings in Varosha, but once I found out that there are walkways to keep visitors safe, this wasn’t an issue.
As of 2024, I would say that it is safe to visit Varosha!
Snacks and souvenirs at Varosha.
You will find a coffee van, snack bar, and souvenir stall when you enter Varosha, just before you get to the bike/scooter rental area.
I had a lovely cappuccino from the van for a very reasonable cost. I had to pay with Turkish Lira cash though, as with the taxi to and from Famagusta bus station.
How to visit Varosha from Paphos.
Many tourists cross into North Cyprus by the Larnaca to Famagusta route, however, I took the unconventional route through Nicosia, so I could cross at the famous Ledra Street border crossing.
I had heard how it was quite a unique travel experience going from the ‘Cypriot’ side (Nicosia) to the ‘Turkish’ side (Lefkosa), which turned out to be correct.
An early morning bus from Paphos is essential if you want to make a day of Varosha.
These are the viable bus times.
Mon - Fri: 4.45am/5.45am/8am/9am.
Sat/Sun/Holidays - 7am/9am.
Once you arrive in Nicosia at Solomou Square, it is around a 10 minute walk down Ledra Street to cross into the Turkish side.
From there it is a 10 minute walk, or short taxi ride to Kyrenia Gate bus station, where the bus to Famagusta leaves.
It takes around 1 hour and the cost (paid in cash to the driver when leaving the bus) is 110TL (£2.50) each way.
Once you arrive into Famagusta, it is 1km to Varosha, which is signposted.
If you don’t like the adventure side of travel as much as I do, there is also an option to visit on an official tour from Paphos.
This is an all day tour which includes exploring Famagusta, and it’s beautiful beaches, before a historical visit to Salamis and Varosha.
The North Cyprus and Turkish flag proudly displayed by the beach.
Paphos to Famagusta is a tiring journey whichever way you do it, but this tour takes the logistics and organising out of your hands.
I made my own way there as I wanted to experience the Ledra Street Border Crossing and Nicosia on my day trip, and this was the best fit for my shorter style Paphos itinerary.
Where to stay in Famagusta.
The closest hotel to Varosha is the Arkin Palm Beach Hotel, so an ideal choice if you want to stay on the beach front near the eerie city.
Here are some other highly rated accommodation options in Famagusta:
Grand Sapphire City Hotel is close to shops and restaurants, along with offering breakfast.
Royal Goddess Guest House is highly rated for location and comfort, and suitable for families.
Port View Hotel Great price, opposite local supermarket, and offers penthouse apartments.
An old disco.
Enjoy some Dark Tourism? How about the Cu Chi Tunnels in Vietnam?
There is something very interesting about learning the history of a new destination.. It is what travel is all about!
If dark tourism interests you, then read about my experience visiting the Vietnamese war tunnels in the Cu Chi Jungle on a day trip from Ho Chi Minh City.
It was a very thought provoking experience, and the local tour guides were awesome!
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